What's with all this smoke?
and why does everyone seem off it in Swansea?

- Light
- Bong on
- Knock up a spliff for fuck's sake!
- Gi's a tote on that mate
- Do us a smoke
- Any chance of a blast?
- After you on that one mun
- Wot you think of my new pipe, cuntox?
- What the fuck was in that, man?
- I NEED a drag coz I'm gasping my brains out!!!!!

In the roots, something missing?
Here is the sense:

Copper-smelting was first established near Swansea by a German, Ulrich Frosse at Aberdulais in 1584. In 1684 a new method of smelting metal using coal was discovered and Swansea's industrial fortune flourished. The first copper works in the Tawe Valley (Landore, 1717) was Dr. Lane's Llangyfelach works.

In 1799, it was estimated that a population of nearly seven thousand lived in Swansea and the copper houses, were annually smelting forty five thousand tons of metal and consuming seventy thousand chaldrons of coal.

By 1860, 12 copper smelters were located on both sides of the river Tawe and in the 18th-19th centuries, Swansea was one of the world's biggest manufacturer of metal, in it's prime all but one of the copper works of Britain was in the Swansea area.

Production of nickel, zinc, lead, tin plate, steel, spelter and cobalt are developed alongside the copper industry, Swansea's status was as a world class industrial powerhouse. The Ports development was huge and as it flourished the trade to export copper and minerals grew significantly. A huge fleet of ships travelled the Cape Horn and the "four corners of the earth". Swansea had a worldwide reputation as "Copperopolis" or "Copper Kingdom" and produced 80 per cent of the global copper requirement.

Copper brought amazing wealth and prosperity to Swansea, the downside though was the local atmosphere, what had been beautiful green valleys became so foul with sulphurous fumes, it was said that if the Devil were to pass through he would think that he was at home. Conditions were so bad they would not be tolerated today. The smelting process produced not only mountains of slag but also produced billowing clouds of toxic, foul-smelling smoke, laced with sulphur and arsenic. The pollution led to the death of crops and grazing animals.

Swansea had become a radically changed town. Once a thriving agricultural center, it was ruined for tin, steel, gold, silver, even arsenic production and along with the copper-smelting this turned the sky to a hell-like orange. The poisonous residues destroyed the environment so badly that even today certain places in the valley remain sterile.

Description of Swansea conditions by George Borrow, 1836:
There were immense stacks of chimneys and smoke was proceeding in volumes, choking the atmosphere all around.

In 1854, Thomas Williams said: The surface of the land to the north and northeast of Swansea looked as if it had been scorched. Smoke and vapors darkened the air and concealed the sun, stifling the breather. The countryside stretching as far north as Morriston, as far east as Bonymaen and as far west as Treboeth and Cwmbwrla, was covered by grim-looking mounds of scoriae from the copper furnaces an area rendered hideous by stones, red gravel, and black slag. In addition, the vegetation was practically extinct as a direct result of the action of sulphurous copper smoke.

Fifteen decades of smelting operations, had transformed a once smiling valley into a barren desert. All the stagnant fresh water within the limits of the smoke district was completely destitute of pond life. By the mid-19th century there was well over three hundred furnace chimneys in the Swansea and district area, each delivering into the atmosphere many thousands of cubic feet of dense white chemical clouds and curling columns of smoke. People from the outlying areas of Llansamlet, Foxhole, Bonymaen, Landore and Hafod had to suffer badly. It was claimed that Swansea and district produced one half of the copper smoke of the world!

Furnacemen, whose ages ranged from twenty to sixty-five years, worked a twelve-hour day. For half the shift they were exposed to a temperature of 1500F and for the remaining period to a temperature ranging between 650 and 700F. Although the smelters’ sheds were amply ventilated, the men sweated profusely under the influence of such intense heat. The discomfort of these craftsmen, however, was mitigated to some extent by drinking copious draughts of cool water. It was estimated that the average smelter was in the habit of consuming two to three gallons of nature’s beverage per shift.

At Port Tennant a young girl using a donkey was employed to fetch pure water from a fountain situated a mile away from the works. The animal, bearing on its back two eight-gallon casks, carried one hundred gallons every day to the smelting sheds.

Williams stated that despite the extreme variations of temperature and the drudgery to which the coppermen were subjected each day their general health was remarkably good and many of them reached a ripe old age. They earned good wages, they were well-housed and well-fed, they supported their families in plenty, and they were, in every respect far better off than the farm-laborers on the Welsh hills and the local colliers.

On account of exposure to cold between each shift and the inhalation of hot coal- and slag-dust, the smelters were more prone to chronic bronchitis and asthma than ordinary labourers. At each shift the coppermen were obliged to withstand very offensive fumes charged, very probably, with detectable proportions of arsenic in the form of arseniurreted hydrogen. Dr. Williams emphasised categorically that the arsenic had affected their health in no way. He added that in the hands of the physician arsenic was a remedy of great power and immense value.

Finally, in speaking of the general health of the people of Swansea he was firmly convinced that the copper smoke was responsible in great measure for the prevention of serious outbreaks of cholera, typhus and influenza in the area. He also noted that locally-grown potatoes had, for years, escaped the attacks of the potato disease.

(American Journal of Mining, April 13, 1867) Near to Swansea thousands of acres of land have hardly a blade of grass, and in many instances the smelters have had to pay heavy damages for the injurious effects of the smoke on the adjoining properties--even trees many miles distance have been affected."

In 1925 Elizabeth Philips wrote: The beautiful countryside became changed into one of the greatest industrial districts of South Wales. Dense clouds of sulphurous smoke rose to Heaven, and land owners began to complain of the harm done to their crops and pastures, inhabitants feared that the air they breathed would eventually poison them.

Copper smelting finally ceased in 1924 and most of the works were demolished, but for many years after, the sites of these once great and historic manufacturing works stayed derelict, the landscape was just an ugly scar of molten rock and ore.

Today, a huge land reclamation program has seen new factories and retail traders encouraged into the Swansea Valley and employment has flourished again.

There was also a disaster that will always be remembered. On the 6th December 1867, a ship called the Queen of Swansea was heading for Tilt Cove with fifteen people aboard, these included two children and a druggist. Twelve miles from its destination, the ship ran aground off Gull Island. The survivors lit a fire and waited in vain for help but in desperation, they had to resort to systematic cannibalism where the unlucky victims were chosen by straws.

These measures only postponed the death of all. When fishermen visited Gull Island a year later they found little but bones and Felix Downsley's diary. Today, a monument to the Queen of Swansea sits atop the east cliffs of Tilt Cove.
to be placed over the grave.
For a lot more details, read the story opposite...

Smokey
Check out the smoke!


Kilvay and Smoke
Is that Kilvay Hill mingling in with the atmospherics?


Smoke, Smoke, smoke
Smoke, smoke and even more smoke. was breathing even possible in them days!!!


one chimney
Only the one chimney (far left) functioning on that day.


Tawe in front
I know that place, the Tawe's just in front.


shitty dump
After they had closed down, that's the typical shitty dump type lanscape Swansea was left with.


now, nearly
These are some of the only remaining chimneys (there's now a big car park thing built in place of the puddles).


Tragedy of the QUEEN OF SWANSEA at Gull Island, Peninsula, Newfoundland.

The "Queen of Swansea" was a 360 ton ship from Swansea, Wales that used to carry passengers and cargo. On December 6, 1867, she left St. John's to go to Tilt Cove, a copper mining town. She had 15 people aboard, including a druggist and 2 children.

After the Queen sailed through the Narrows of the St. John's Harbor, she was never heard from again. A week after her disappearance some wreckage, including the cover of Duggan's trunk, drifted ashore at Twillingate. Several searches were carried out along the coast line but no further trace of the vanished ship was found.

Four months later, a schooner landed on Gull Island and found a pile of human bones. It was the remains of two men. A few yards away a piece of canvas was discovered and found underneath, a grisly pile of bodies.

Upon surveying the scene, Captain Rowsell, knew that they had found the victims of the "Queen of Swansea".

Finding the bones and bodies of the crew and passengers did not tell the whole story of the wreck. In the clothing of three of the men were scribbled notations that told of the suffering and horror that occurred there.

In his first of three letters, using a matchstick for a pen and his own blood as ink, Felix Dowsley told that in the early hours of December 12, the Queen was in Notre Dame Bay nearing her destination when a violent storm erupted. A heavy snow fall blocked out everything in sight, visibility was nil. At 6:00 am without warning she crashed head on into the gulch at Gull Island and beached herself on a sloping rock. A sailor scrambled ashore and fixed a rope around a rock to keep the vessel from sliding back into the sea. Ropes tied to each person enabled the crew to get the entire company safely ashore and to a higher ledge beyond the waves.

When daylight came four men, one of these Patrick Duggan, volunteered to return to the ship in hope of salvaging whatever they could. The men slid down the rope from the shore, but no sooner had the men got on the ship than a wave of unusual size ripped the ship from the rocky cradle of Gull Island. Helplessly, the men on the ship and the people on shore gazed at each other, while the vessel slowly sank out of sight.

The survivors faced a scarcely better fate. They had no shelter, no food, no water, and no means of making fire. They had to draw lots to see which ones would be killed and eaten by the others, and being totally unfamiliar with the area, they didn't realize how close land was. Captain Patrick Duggan, pilot of the "Queen of Swansea", was from La Scie and knew the area, but unfortunately was one of those lost with the ship.

The remains of the victims have been buried in the old Anglican church yard in Swansea, Wales. A monument has also been erected.

The following are some letters and scribbled notes that were found in the clothing
of the dead.

First Letter, written by Dr. Felix Dowsley
GULL ISLAND of Cape St. John Tuesday, December 17, 1867

My Darling Margaret:

As you are aware, we left St. John's on Tuesday morning , the 6th inst. On the evening of that day a dreadful gale came on, which lasted about two or three days. We were driven off about one hundred and sixty miles to sea. I thought every moment the vessel would be upset or swamped; but it appears she was spared a little longer for a similar fate. We ran into a gulch on the Island on the morning of Tuesday, the 12th inst., about six o'clock, when the sea was raging and running mountains high. She only remained there about fifteen minutes, which as not sufficient time for all hands to save themselves. All were saved with the exception of two of the crew, Duggan the Pilot and Mullowney's step-brother.

We were dragged up the cliff by means of a rope tied round our waists. Not one of us saved a single thing but as we stood, not even a bit of bread; this is our fifth day, and we have not had a bite or sup, not even a drink of water, there being no such thing on the Island. It is void of everything that would give us comfort. It is so barren and bleak that we cannot get wood to make a fire to warm us. Out bed is on the solid rocks, with a piece of canvas, full of mud, to cover us. You may fancy what my sufferings are and have been. You know I was never very strong or robust. My feet are all swollen, and I am getting very weak. I expect tomorrow, at the farthest, some of us will be no more, and I very much fear that I shall be the first victim; if so, you will not have the gratification of getting my body, as they will make use of it for food.

I am famishing with thirst. I would give the money I took with me, yes! all I ever saw, for one drink of water. If I had plenty of water I know I should live much longer. I feel a dreadful feverish thirst, and no means of relieving it. Oh! is it not a hard case that I cannot even get a drink of water. Oh! did I ever think my life would end in this way, to be cast away on a barren rock in the middle of the ocean, and there to perish with cold, hunger, and thirst, and my bones to be bleached with the winter's frost and the summer's sun, and to be food for the wild fowls. Oh! is it not sad to think of this, and such a little thing could save us! We are only eight miles from Shoe Cove, where we would be received with open arms.

Now my darling Margaret, as I plainly see that in a few hours I must appear before my God, I wish to say a few words about your future prospects. I think the best place for you to go would be the States if you can possibly arrange matters. See (name omitted) when he arrives in the spring, tell him your intentions. I believe he is a very good, human man, and will, no doubt, do everything that is fair and in his power for you.

(Omitted. Here the writer Felix Dowsley instructs his wife, in regard to private and personal matters.)

Whilst I am writing this, under our little bit of canvas, I am shivering with weakness, and cold from head to feet. I don't know how I have written what I have, but this I can say, the facts are worse than I have named. Give my love to my darling children and tell them to think of my sad fate. Tell them that I leave it as my dying request to be kind and obedient to you, and to be advised by you in everything. Oh! my darling, you will feel, you will pity me when you hear of my sad fate. Oh, do, and pray for me with the children incessantly! Again I would advise you to go to the States, if you can dispose of the property, and arrange other matters. I cannot see what you can do here.

I must now conclude, my darling, as I am unable to write more. Embrace my darling children, and tell them to be obliging and kind to each other, for without this they cannot expect to prosper. Tell them their unfortunate, unhappy father leaves them his blessing. Should our fate be known before the spring. If (omitted) would come around he would be able to get my body or bones, which I would like to have laid in Belvedere. If I had you, or, at least, if I were with you and my dear children, and had the clergyman, I don't think I should fear for death half as much.

I must now, my darling, take my last farewell of you in this world. May we meet and enjoy one another where there is no sorrow, no trouble, no affliction.

I leave you my love, my blessing.

Your loving, but unfortunate husband,

F. DOWSLEY



Second Letter, written by Dr. Dowsley
to his wife Margaret from the Gull Island

Wednesday, December 18th, 1867

My dear Margaret,
I have been out to see if there might be any chance of a rescue; but no such thing. I am almost mad with the thirst! I would give all I ever saw for one drink of water, but I shall never get it. We are all wet and frozen. I am now going under the canvas to lie down and die. My God pity and have mercy on my soul!

I am almost mad with the
thirst. I would give all the money I ever saw for one drink of fresh
water. It has been twelve days since we were shipwrecked and
since then we have not had a morsel to eat. The only water we
have drank is the muddy water which melt's under our saturated
feet.
My darling what a sad Christmas Eve this is. I imagine I see
You making sweet bread and preparing everything for tomorrow.
I think I can see the children hanging up their Christmas
stockings while they sing Christmas songs and carols. O my dear Margaret, I never knew how to appreciate the comfort of a home
and a warm bed until now. If I were home to have you and the children beside me, I think the trial would be small compared to
what it is now.
But my darling, we can never see one another in this would
again. I had no idea I could have lasted so long in these
conditions. There is no hope for deliverence. I have never been
robust as you know and I fear today or tomorrow some of us shall be no more. I greatly fear I shall be the first victim. If so, you shall not have the gratification of getting my body as they shall
make use of it for food. I am unable to write anymore.
Kiss and embrace the children for me. Tell them I did not forget
them in my last hours. Tell them they must be strong. And you, my faithful and darling wife, you too must be strong. Farewell until
we meet on God's brighter shore. May God have mercy on our
souls.
Your loving,
but unfortunate husband,
F. Dowsley.



Third Letter, written by Dr. Dowsley to his wife Margaret from Gull Island.
Gull Island off Cape John,

December 24th, 1867

My Darling Margaret:

We are still alive, and only that. We have had no relief ever since, nor any signs of it. We have not tasted a bit of food of any kind with the exception of the dirty snow water that melts around and under our feet, which we are very glad to devour. The place we are sheltered in , if I can call it a shelter, is up to our ankles in water. Oh what a sad Christmas and Christmas day it is for me! I think I can see you making the sweetbread and preparing everything comfortable for tomorrow. My feet were very painful last night; I was in complete agony with them. My clothes are completely saturated. Oh! I never knew how to appreciate the comforts of a home or a bed until now. If I were home, and to have you and the children beside me, and have the clergyman, I think the trial would be small compared to what it is now; but we shall never see one another again in this world. I had no idea we should have lasted so long. Our case is now hopeless; there is no hope for a deliverance. My suffering has been beyond description since I landed on this barren rock......... Oh! how I dread - I would write more, but feel unable. Oh my darling, if I could but once see you and the children I would be satisfied. Embrace them all for me.

(Here follow words of loving farewells to his family and friends, requesting them to pray for him, and he closes his letter by signing himself)

Your loving, but unhappy husband,
F. DOWSLEY



Copy of note found on the person of Captain Owens.
Loss of the Queen of Swansea at Gull Island
12 December 1867
No. 1

We left St. John's NF., on the 5th December 1867 with eighty tonnes of stone ballast, about ten or twelve tons of general cargo and lumber, and a mail bag full of letters, for the Union Mine, Tilt Cove.

When running for Gull Island, Cape John, in a snow squall, and not able to see anything, even when on top of it, at six o'clock A. M. on the 12th December. Did not save anything only this book and the ship's papers, which are in a tin case now here; and Lord have mercy on our souls! We shall all perish here without food or clothes or fire.

(signed)
JOHN OWEN
Master of the ill-fated "Queen of Swansea"



Copy of note found on the person of Captain Owens
No. 2.

The "Queen of Swansea" got on the rocks of Gull Island, Cape John, N. F., in lat.49 deg. 59 min., and along .55 deg. 11 min.w ., or thereabouts, on the 12th December 1867. Consisting on board, altogether, seven hands of the crew and the master, which was eight in number of the ship's company, and six passengers and a pilot, two of the passengers being females; altogether on board, fifteen souls.

The captain and mate and seven men and two females land on the Gull Island by means of a rope at six o'clock A.M., on the 12th December, 1867, just as we stood, neither bread, nor eatables, nor clothes. Botswain, Pilot and one of the ship's crew went away with the ship, and a married man, who was one of the passengers. All these four perished with the ship. This is written on the Island after landing, by me.
(signed)
JOHN OWENS
Master of the "Queen"
Power, Mullowney's step-brother.
(signed) L. N. G.



A monument located in the Cemetery at Tilt Cove was erected by the owners of the "Queen of Swansea", messers Richard Power & Co. of Swansea, Great Britain.


TO THE MEMORY OF THE CREW AND PASSENGERS OF THE SHIP

"QUEEN OF SWANSEA"

WHO WERE WRECKED ON GULL ISLAND
DECEMBER 12 1867 AND THERE PERISHED


JOHN OWEN
MASTER
THOMAS MORGAN
MATE
AND
SIX SEAMEN
NAMES UNKNOWN
PASSENGERS
FELIX DOWSLEY
WILLIAM HOSKINS
PATRICK DUGGAN
THOMAS POWER
WILLIAM KENNDY
GRINELDA HOSKINS
CAROLINE STILSON


After the story of the terrible ship wreck on Gull Island was told, a clammer arose for a lighthouse on the island. It was built in 1884 and its first keeper was Captain Mark Rowsell, the man who brought home the frozen bodies from the "Queen of Swansea".

Facilities are now completely automated at the lighthouse on Gull Island. The light and fog alarms are operated in the winter time.

SOURCE

Loss of the Queen of Swansea--Information compiled by Mr. John Kelsey
Page by Nige swansea Till I die.